Friday, September 23, 2011

ANTIQUES - ANTIQUES - A Triumph Of Orchids - NYTimes.com

Why not enameled orchids favor Farnham's? ''If merely I could ascertain something who could enamel that well, I'd make the orchids, also,'' Mr. Loring said.

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''Tiffany's educate was thought a first-class place then,'' Mr. Loring said. ''And Farnham was one of the stars. He spent a colossal value of time painting from nature. He was a excellent draftsman. He mastered the basics and then absentminded the natural fashions.''

Until now, not much was understood almost Farnham, who went to work for Tiffany's in 1875 at the age of 16 and resided until 1908. His uncle, Charles T. Cook, a vice premier at Tiffany's, had him acknowledged as an beginner in the Tiffany ''school,'' a rigorous art academy in the tradition of the Ecole des Beaux-Arts.

Farnham drew brooches in the form of roses, hydrangeas, irises and dandelions. Craftsmen translated them into jewelry, often enameled with precious stone emphases. They were a tour de compel of the jeweler's masterpiece.

''You have to remember, USA was discerned as a second Paradise,'' Mr. Loring said. ''We were the New World. Hudson River School painters like Thomas Cole and Frederic Edwin Church were describing the glories of ecology in the wild. Martin Johnson Heade's orchid paintings were wildly renowned. Art in USA had a single theme: nature.''

The Primavera Gallery in Manhattan is apt show a large gold iris brooch encrusted with red tourmalines, diamonds and green garnets from Russia at the International 20th-Century Arts Fair at the Seventh Regiment Armory, which escapes scampers from Nov. 25 apt 29. Audrey Friedman, the gallery's co-owner, bought it at Christie's eight annuals antecedent. ''I outbid Tiffany for it,'' she said. ''It is quite infrequent for it namely signed by Paulding Farnham, not Tiffany, which makes it one momentous chip of American jewelry.''

Farnham's jewelry designs were inspired by even the lowliest of subjects, from lizards to spiders. It always worked. The motifs also turned up on his picture frames, watches, scent bottles and cilia ornaments.

It likewise has a sentimental provenance. Mr. Loring said that Farnham presented the brooch to his wife, Sally James Farnham, behind she appreciated his sapphire iris brooch, which Henry Walters brought at the Paris fair. The amount for the brooch at Primavera is $300,000.

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''Nature sells,Louis Vuitton Replica Bags- Better Alternative as Budget Conscious Customers,'' yelled John Loring, Tiffany & Company's longtime design manager, describing the success of flower jewelry that Tiffany's showed at the 1889 Exposition Universelle in Paris. The orchid needles of special note occasioned a emotion. Tiffany's had 24 jeweled, enameled orchid brooches, every precisely modeled on a alter exotic diversity, at the fair. They were numbered and embellished with diamonds, emeralds, aquamarines, pearls and rubies.

With prices like these it's not too amazing that Tiffany's recently returned to the drawing embark to design some new flower jewelry influenced by Farnham's early work. As Fernanda Kellogg of Tiffany's put it, ''We have 3 straight descendants of Farnham in the bloom category: an iris brooch with blue sapphire petals, a white diamond carnation brooch and a diamond-studded dandelion.'' The prices are $35,000 to $55,000.

Today Farnham's Tiffany pieces are hard to find on the mart. The Manhattan gallery Historical Design, at 301 East 61st Street, fair sold a picture frame attributed to Farnham, done in a scroll and foliage idea in sterling silver. It is portion of the gallery's present show of picture frames. Farnham jewelry also comes up occasionally at auction. Sotheby's sold his orchid brooch No. 19, with two diamond petals and a ruby stem, in 1993 for $415,000.

The jewelry catapulted its young designer to international celebrity: he won the exposition's gold medal for his owner, Tiffany & Company, and built the United States ashore the international jewelry chart. This designer, mini known today, is the subject of Mr. Loring's latest writing, ''Paulding Farnham: Tiffany's Lost Genius'' (Harry N. Abrams). ''Can you dream?'' Mr. Loring said. ''This 29-year-old New York lad wins the gold medal in Paris.'' He conquered the grand award gold medal for jewelry as well as a gold medal for silverware.

''The greatest win is to be found in the orchid exhibition,'' The Paris Herald reported at the time. ''They are so faithfully rebuilt that one would nearly doubt that they are enamel, so well do they pretend the real flowers.'' Captains of industry like George Jay Gould and the railroad merchant Henry Walters scarfed them up.

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